Barbari Bread: Persian Sesame Flatbread, Soft Inside, Crisp Outside

Few breads smell as inviting as a warm barbari, the long, golden, sesame-topped flatbread that Iranians pick up fresh from the neighbourhood bakery. As the weather cools, a loaf straight from the oven with butter, feta and walnuts is one of the most satisfying breakfasts you can put on the table, and it is easier to bake at home than most people expect.

What makes barbari special

Barbari (nan-e barbari) is a thick, soft flatbread with a chewy crumb and a crisp, deeply browned crust. Its signature look comes from two things: deep finger grooves pressed along the length of the dough, and a thin flour-and-water glaze called roomal that is brushed on before baking. The glaze is what gives barbari its shine and its toasty colour.

Tips for a soft, bakery-style loaf

• Keep the dough soft and a little sticky. Barbari dough is wetter than regular bread dough. Resist adding extra flour while kneading; use oiled hands instead.
• Give it time. A slow first rise of about 1 to 1.5 hours develops flavour. For even better taste, rest the dough in the fridge overnight and bring it to room temperature before shaping.
• Do not skip the glaze. Simmer the flour and water mixture until it thickens slightly and let it cool before brushing, otherwise it will cook the dough on contact.
• Press firmly. Oil your fingertips and press four or five long grooves down the loaf, almost to the work surface. They will relax in the oven.
• Bake hot. A very hot oven, 240 °C (465 °F), with a tray of hot water on the bottom shelf gives steam, a crisp crust and a soft inside.

Variations

• Sprinkle nigella seeds (siah daneh) with the sesame for a more traditional flavour.
• Replace up to a third of the white flour with whole wheat for a nuttier loaf; add a little extra water.
• Shape smaller, individual barbari rolls for sandwiches and lunchboxes.

Serving ideas

Serve barbari the classic way, with feta, fresh herbs, walnuts and sweet tea, or alongside soft-boiled eggs and jam. Torn into pieces it is also perfect for dipping into soups such as ash reshteh, and a thick slice makes an excellent base for a kebab or omelette sandwich.

Storage

Barbari is best on the day it is baked. Keep leftovers in a paper bag or bread box for up to two days. For longer storage, slice the cooled loaf, freeze it in a sealed bag for up to two months, and refresh slices in a hot oven or toaster. A quick sprinkle of water and five minutes in a hot oven brings a day-old loaf back to life.