Zereshk Polo ba Morgh: Persian Barberry Rice with Saffron Chicken

Zereshk polo ba morgh is the dish Iranian hostesses bring out when they want the table to look like a celebration: fluffy saffron rice scattered with ruby-red barberries, beside tender chicken simmered with onion and saffron. With Yalda Night on December 21, now is a good moment to practise it, because every part can be prepared ahead.

What makes it special

Zereshk (barberries) are small dried berries with a bright, sour edge. Quickly sautéed with a little sugar and butter, they cut through the richness of buttery rice and chicken. The contrast of sweet, sour and floral saffron is the whole point, so do not skip the sugar or over-cook the berries, which turn bitter.

Tips for success

• Rinse and soak the berries. Rinse them in a sieve, then soak in cold water for 10 minutes to remove grit and excess salt. Drain well.
• Soak the rice. Use long-grain basmati, rinsed until the water runs clear, then soaked in salted water for 2 hours. This gives long, separate grains.
• Parboil, do not cook through. Boil the rice 6 to 8 minutes until it is soft outside but still firm in the centre, then drain.
• Bloom the saffron. Grind a pinch of saffron with a sugar crystal, then steep in 3 tablespoons of hot water. Use it for the chicken and for colouring part of the rice.
• Steam with a towel. Wrap the pot lid in a clean kitchen towel so condensation does not drip back onto the rice.

Variations

• Add slivered pistachios and almonds, lightly toasted, for a festive crunch.
• Use bone-in chicken legs for more flavour, or boneless thighs for quicker cooking.
• For a tahdig, spread the bottom of the pot with a layer of rice mixed with yogurt and saffron before steaming.
• Replace chicken with lamb shanks for a more formal dinner.

Serving ideas for Yalda Night

Serve the rice on a wide platter, chicken on top or alongside, with a bowl of plain yogurt, a Shirazi salad and pickles (torshi). Finish the evening with pomegranate, watermelon and an ajil platter. A pomegranate-mint punch makes a good alcohol-free drink for the table.

Storage

Refrigerate rice and chicken separately in airtight containers for up to 3 days. Reheat the rice with a splash of water in a covered pan, and the chicken gently with its juices. Cool leftovers within two hours of cooking, and make sure everything is steaming hot before serving.

Barberries are sold in Middle Eastern shops and online; if you cannot find them, unsweetened dried cranberries are a looser substitute, though less tart.