Nargesi (Persian Spinach and Eggs Skillet) in 25 Minutes

Nargesi is a Persian skillet dish of tender, garlicky spinach topped with eggs that cook right on the greens. Its name comes from the narcissus flower: the round white whites and golden yolks look like little blossoms against the green. It is a classic Iranian lunch or light supper, and it is a lovely answer to the question of what to make when you have a bag of spinach, a few eggs and twenty minutes.

The flavour is mellow and savoury rather than spicy: sweet browned onion, garlic, a little turmeric for warmth, and runny or set yolks that turn into a sauce for the spinach. Persian families usually eat it with warm flatbread, yogurt and a plate of fresh herbs, but it works just as well beside toast, rice or a simple tomato salad. It also fits the season, since spinach is at its best in cool weather and the dish is quick enough for busy autumn weeknights.

Tips for the best nargesi

• Cook the water out of the spinach. Wet spinach makes a soggy base and eggs that will not set. Keep the pan uncovered until the greens look nearly dry, and if you use frozen spinach, thaw it and squeeze it very well first.
• Brown the onion properly. Eight to ten minutes over medium heat gives sweetness that balances the greens.
• Make wells for the eggs. Press small hollows into the spinach with the back of a spoon so each yolk sits in place.
• Use a lid and low heat. Steam sets the whites gently. Cook about four minutes for soft yolks and six for fully set ones.
• Season at the end. Spinach reduces a lot, so taste before the final salt.

Variations

• Richer version: stir in a spoonful of Greek yogurt or a little crumbled feta with the spinach.
• Extra aromatics: add chopped fresh dill or cilantro, or a pinch of red pepper flakes.
• Dairy-free: use olive oil, which is the default here, and skip the cheese and yogurt.
• Mixed greens: swap half the spinach for chard or kale, chopped small and cooked a little longer.

Serving ideas

Serve straight from the skillet with warm pita, lavash or sourdough toast, plain yogurt, sliced cucumbers and tomatoes, and a few radishes. For brunch, add a bowl of olives and a pot of black tea. It is also an easy meatless dinner when paired with rice.

Storage

Nargesi is best eaten right away. You can cook the spinach base up to two days ahead, keep it in the fridge, then reheat it in the skillet and add the eggs fresh. Leftover cooked eggs keep one day refrigerated and reheat gently.

Note: eggs with runny yolks are not recommended for pregnant women, young children, older adults or anyone with a weakened immune system. Cook the eggs until fully set in those cases.