Ash Reshteh: Persian Noodle, Herb and Bean Soup for Cold Days

When the evenings turn cold, many Iranian kitchens fill with the smell of simmering herbs, fried onions and dried mint. Ash reshteh is a thick, deep green soup made with beans, lentils, fresh herbs and noodles, finished with tangy kashk and golden onions. It is a traditional dish for gatherings, for welcoming guests, and for the first chilly weeks of the year, and it suits anyone who wants a filling vegetarian meal that feeds a crowd on a modest budget.

Why this soup works

Ash reshteh layers texture and flavour. Chickpeas, kidney beans and lentils give body and protein, the large amount of herbs gives freshness and colour, and the noodles make it a complete one-pot meal. The toppings are not decoration: fried onion adds sweetness, mint oil adds fragrance, and kashk adds the sour, savoury note that defines the dish.

Tips for a better pot

• Soak the beans overnight. Dried chickpeas and kidney beans need a long, gentle simmer. Soaking shortens the cooking time and gives an even texture. Kidney beans must always be boiled until fully tender.
• Use plenty of herbs. Parsley, cilantro, spinach, dill and scallions should be about half the volume of the pot at the start. They cook down a lot. Chop them fairly small so the soup is thick and green rather than stringy.
• Add the noodles late. Reshteh noodles go in during the last 20 minutes. If they cook too long they turn soft and swallow the broth. Stir often so they do not clump.
• Do not skip the toppings. Fry the onions slowly until deep golden, and warm the dried mint in oil for only a few seconds, because it burns quickly and turns bitter.
• Season at the end. Kashk is salty, so taste the soup after stirring it in before adding more salt.

Variations

• No kashk? Thin plain strained yogurt with a little water and a pinch of salt. The flavour is milder but still delicious.
• No reshteh noodles? Broken linguine or thin spaghetti works in a pinch.
• Extra protein: Add a handful of cooked white beans or a few cubes of fried tofu.
• Shortcut version: Use well-drained canned chickpeas and beans, and add them with the herbs for the last 30 minutes.

Serving ideas

Serve hot in wide bowls with the toppings added at the table so everyone can adjust. Fresh bread, a plate of raw radishes and herbs, and a simple Shirazi salad make a complete autumn lunch. It also fits well on a table for family gatherings and potlucks, since it holds well on the stove over low heat.

Storage

Ash reshteh keeps for 3 to 4 days in the refrigerator and thickens as it sits, so loosen it with hot water when reheating. Store the toppings separately. The soup freezes well for up to 2 months, but freeze it without the kashk and add that fresh after reheating.

Who should be careful: The soup contains dairy (kashk), gluten (noodles) and legumes. People with these allergies or sensitivities should adjust the recipe, and kashk is quite high in sodium for anyone watching their salt intake.