Creamy Mushroom Risotto: Easy Stovetop Method for Autumn

Risotto is the Italian way of cooking short-grain rice slowly in hot stock until it turns silky and almost saucy, with each grain still tender but slightly firm in the centre. Mushroom risotto is the cosy autumn classic: earthy, savoury and rich, and it is a dish people search for every year as the weather cools. It needs only one pot, a handful of everyday ingredients and about 45 minutes.

What makes risotto creamy?

The creaminess does not come from cream. Arborio, carnaroli or vialone nano rice is high in surface starch. Stirring while you add hot stock a ladle at a time rubs that starch off the grains and thickens the liquid into a glossy sauce. Arborio is sold in most supermarkets; if you cannot find it, any short-grain “risotto rice” works. Do not rinse the rice, or you will wash the starch away.

Choosing and cooking the mushrooms

Cremini (baby bella) mushrooms are inexpensive and deeply flavoured. For more depth, mix in shiitake or oyster mushrooms, or add a small handful of soaked dried porcini and use their strained soaking liquid as part of the stock. The key is to brown the mushrooms in a wide pan without crowding it and without salting early. Salt draws out water, and wet mushrooms steam instead of browning. Golden edges are where the flavour is.

Tips for the best texture

• Keep the stock hot. Cold stock stops the cooking and makes the rice uneven. Hold it at a gentle simmer in a second pot.
• Toast the rice. One or two minutes in the fat before the wine gives the finished dish a nuttier flavour and helps the grains hold their shape.
• Stir often, not endlessly. Constant stirring is not required, but frequent stirring keeps the bottom from sticking and releases starch.
• Taste at 16 minutes. The rice should be tender with a slight bite. The texture should flow slowly when you tilt the pan, like a thick, loose porridge. It will tighten as it stands.
• Finish off the heat. Stir in cold butter and Parmesan, cover and rest for two minutes. This step, called mantecatura, makes the dish glossy.

Variations

• Dairy-free or vegan: use olive oil instead of butter and a spoonful of nutritional yeast in place of Parmesan. Use vegetable stock.
• No wine: replace it with the same amount of stock plus a teaspoon of lemon juice or white wine vinegar.
• Extra richness: add a spoonful of mascarpone at the end, or a little truffle oil (a few drops is enough).
• Add protein: top with seared chicken thighs, crispy pancetta or a soft-boiled egg.
• Persian-inspired twist: steep a pinch of saffron in a few spoonfuls of hot stock and stir it in with the last ladle, then scatter chopped pistachios on top.

Serving ideas

Serve straight away in warm, shallow bowls, because risotto keeps cooking and thickens quickly. A peppery arugula salad with lemon dressing balances the richness, and a glass of dry white wine, or sparkling water with a lemon slice, suits the earthy flavours. Finish with black pepper, chopped parsley and extra Parmesan. Note that traditional Parmesan is made with animal rennet, so strict vegetarians may prefer a vegetarian hard cheese.

Storage and leftovers

Cool leftovers quickly and refrigerate in a sealed container for up to two days; reheat only once and until steaming hot, as cooked rice should not sit at room temperature. Add a splash of stock or water when reheating to loosen it. Better yet, shape cold risotto into balls, stuff each with a cube of mozzarella, coat in breadcrumbs and fry or bake them for arancini, one of the best things to do with leftovers.